Eskimoz Bordeaux Today

Kunuk and Nuka, meanwhile, opened a tiny échoppe on Rue Saint-James: Chez les Eskimoz . They sold smoked eel (which they called “river seal”), pickled lingonberries imported from Sweden at great expense, and a fermented tea made from local heather that tasted, as one critic wrote, “like a peat fire wrestling a flower.” It became fashionable. The poet Francis Jammes wrote an ode to Nuka’s savon au phoque —seal fat soap—though no seal was ever harmed in Bordeaux for its making.

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But the Bordelais, for all their sophistication, embraced them with a curiosity that bordered on mania. The local press called them “nos frères du Grand Nord” —our brothers of the Far North. A wine merchant named Étienne Delacroix offered them work hauling barrels along the quays. The cold, damp cellars of the Chartrons district reminded Kunuk of home. He adapted with startling speed. Within a year, he spoke a broken but serviceable French, learned to smoke a pipe, and became a minor celebrity at the Marché des Capucins, where he would gut fish with a blade he’d carved from a salvaged harpoon head. Kunuk and Nuka, meanwhile, opened a tiny échoppe

Then came the Great War. Kunuk, inexplicably, enlisted in the French army. He was assigned to a chasseur battalion in the Vosges mountains, where his ability to sleep in snow and navigate by wind direction made him a legend among his fellow soldiers. He wrote Nuka letters on artillery shell casings, always signing them “Ton Eskimo bordelais.” He survived Verdun. He survived the mud, the rats, the endless rain. But in 1918, two weeks before the armistice, a piece of shrapnel found him in a forest near Saint-Quentin. He died facing north. The cornerstone of their offering

Léo Mazaud, the archivist, eventually published a small monograph: “Les Ours Blancs du Sud: A Forgotten Inuit Presence in Belle Époque Bordeaux.” It sold seventeen copies. One went to a museum in Nunavut. One went to a collector in Paris. And one, mysteriously, was found on the grave of Kunuk Sivuk in the cemetery of Chartreuse, wrapped in oilcloth, with a single spiral drawn on the cover in faded blue ink.